Canadian OEM M-101 Military Specifications:
- Axle : Standen 8877093, 3500 lbs axle, 1 3/8" X 1 1/16" inch spindles
- Spring: Semi-Elliptical Leaf Spring, 9 Leaves
- Parking Brake: Mechanical, Hand Lever actuated (Drum Brakes)
- Wheel : 5.50 W x 16 x 5 x 112 mm (4.4 in) bolt pattern
- Overall length : 114 ins
- Overall width : 60.0 ins
- Overall height : 42.0 ins
- Track width : 49.6 ins
- Lunette Height: Upper: 23.5", Lower: 18.5"
- Weight: 770 lbs empty with OEM Canadian wheels/tires.
- With 35 MTRs about 875 lbs
I Drum conversion:
The trailer uses a 5 on 112mm bolt pattern, which I changed to 5 x 5.5 to match my Jeep.
1) Put on trailer Brake and jack up one side of trailer
2) Remove wheel
3) Remove center cap cover
4) Remove Cotter pin
5) Remove castle nut by unscrewing
6) Remove drum [drum will come off easier if you release the trailer brake] it should slide off
7) Install new wheel bearing kit and reverse the procedure
8) Tighten the castle nut until the drum will not turn easily or at all. Loosen until it will spin freely, install cotter pin at that point.
9) Recommend you pick up a wheel bearing kit, 1 3/8" X 1 1/16" .
Time: About 30 min per wheel
Tools: Simple hand tools, jack stand, Channel-Locks, Lug Wrench
Parts Availability:
Phoenix, Tucson, Holbrook, Las Vegas NV
2630 W. Buckeye Rd. Phoenix, AZ 85009
Auto Safety House drum part numbers:
- For 5 on 4.5” part # 008-247-05
- For 5 on 5.0” part # 008-248-05
- For 5 on 5.5” part # 008-249-05
NOTE: The trailer brakes will still work with these drums w/o mods.
Auto Safety House has all the parts you need to upgrade axles etc.
II Shocks:
Rancho RS5119 is a perfect fit. See Cole at 4 Wheel Supply .
Shock install:
1) Put on trailer rake, no need to jack up.
2) Remove upper 3/4 inch nut on shock pin
3) Remove lower shock mount cotter pin
4) Remove shock, use some WD 40 to loosen it up
5) Install new Rancho Shock, RS5119, reverse procedure
Time: <10 min per shock
Tools: Very simple hand tools: 3/4 inch socket or adjustable wrench, needle nose pliers
Note: If installing large tires such as 35x12:50, you will need to trim off the lower flat vertical section front and rear on the fender. Its about 3-4 inches wide and trims easily with a Sawsall, hacksaw etc.
III Paint/Line-X:
It had some minor rust and I used a wire brush to get most of it off. I also used a high pressure water spray to knock off the crud underneath and peel off loose paint. I then shot it with Rust Oleum red primer Professional Grade.
Painting: I picked up 10 cans of Hammered Black by Rust Oleum and used 6 in painting it. This did not include the inside of the tub as I am going to Line X it.
Tub: Got it Line X’d to match the tub of the Jeep. Its expensive, in fact way too expensive but I did it anyhow...sure looks good.
Time: <2 hours to prep included painting and removing or covering items not to be painted.
IV Rear spring shackles install:
The trailer wasn’t sitting quite as level as I wanted and fender to tire clearance was just a tad tight after I put on the 35 MTRs. My solution was to purchase a set of spring shackles and install them on the rear of the springs in place of the OEMs.
I called up Cole at 4 Wheelers Supply & Off Road 800-606-6421 and gave him the dimensions of my spring and the amount of lift I wanted. Cole did some research and got back to me with a set that was close, but would have to be fabbed out to fit. The spring eyes take a 5/8 in diameter bolt and the new shackles had to be cut in half, a slice removed and welded back together again. The holes then needed to be drilled out to the required 5/8 in. Cole had them fabbed up overnight and I ran by the next day to pick them up. They did a fantastic job, many thanks to Cole and 4 Wheelers for their assistance.
Tools:
- 24mm amd 15/16ths sockets for the nut/bolt heads
- Wrangler screw jack to spread the leaf pack downward
- Jack to lift the tub up
- Wheel chocks to hold the trailer in place while you work
Install: See pics. 5 1/2 inch lift CJ shackles.
Time: About 15 min per side.
V “A” frame Aluminum plate install:
I wanted to a shelf in the “A” frame to hold a tool or whatever. I picked up a 1/4 in thick aluminum tread-plate at a scrap-yard and cut it to the size I wanted to fit under the “A” frame. I used a metal cutting carbide tipped blade in my Skillsaw. Its loud, messy throws hot aluminum all over the place. (wear safety goggles if you do this)
Tools:
- Skillsaw w/metal cutting carbide tipped blade
- Drill with metal bit to drill thru aluminum and “A” frame for bolts to hold it on.
Install: See pic
Time: About 1 hr